Uncategorized

Rotting Mongolian Ankle Bones

To be used as dice or fortune tellers. Your pick. But they were white when I bought them.

But shouldn’t they come in a set of five? (I’m worried Chop may have gotten to one.)

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Uncategorized

North Korean Stamps

Two different directions.

(I think these were sent to me by the awesome David & Michelle F, who we met in a tepid Pyongyang BBQ joint.)

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Strange Tourism

AsiaObscura is Moving to India

In a bit of a fit of madness, Michelle and I have decided to move to India. Instead of doing things in a long, planned out way, we’ve decided to jump boat asap. We decided on June 8th. For the last few days, I’ve been calmly insisting we have five weeks. Yesterday she grabbed me.

“Why do you keep saying five weeks?”

“Well, it’s five weeks away.”

“No! It’s three weeks away.”

I’m now a bit of a mess. As we move everything into storage, I’ll be posting bits and pieces of sweet things I find in boxes and drawers that I’d forgotten about.

Like these two Indian transvestite photos I found in a crate in Bombay. I do love the hats…

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Sweet Movies and Wild Books

A Brief Aside on Dr Rajkumar, the James Bond of Southern India

Alone in the hotel, drinking Kingfisher and watching old Karanataka films. In 1981′s Keralida Simha, an honest cop has to break up a party of riotous and drugged out delinquents. And it’s something akin to poetry.

I don’t know much about Kannada cinema — it’s called Sandalwood — but the cop with the sweet mustache and stern slap is Dr Rajkumar. He’s a legend. He’s George Clooney, Brad Pitt, and Michael Jackson, rolled up with James Bond and Jesus in a burrito of southern India awesomeness. When he died in ’06, shop windows were smashed, cars were torched, and all of Bangalore was locked down.

“Put these in your car window,” managers urged to employees, as they handed out stacks of photos of Rajkumar. “If anyone stops your car, point to it. And go home, NOW!”

My brother and his wife fled the state.

“It isn’t as if it was a surprise that he died,” my sister-in-law gasped years later. “He was 78 years old!”

But still, there were riots in Bangalore for days.

My coworkers from Bombay, or Chennai, or New Delhi, have never heard of the man. They didn’t recognize his photo. But here, six years after his death, he’s still everywhere. Poster printer Ramachandraiah still keeps a shrine to Dr Rajkumar in his shop, and a monthly Dr Rajkumar calendar above his desk. Earlier this week, the Bangalore paper ran a front-page article complaining that there still wasn’t a Dr Rajkumar replacement.

All told, though, that is a truly awesome ‘stache.

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The Zombie Files

Disgusting, Deranged, and Totally Brilliant

I’m not a great filmmaker. Or a famous one. If I was, I wouldn’t have ended up drenched in a 3AM rainstorm of the roof of a dilapidated McDonalds, bailing out the small lake of water forming around my sneakers. I definitely wouldn’t have started my filmmaking career in the slums of Buffalo, or have been risking my life for trash cinema.

I felt the wet tar give under my foot.

“Watch out! That’s a weak spot!”

Weak spot. Right. Did I mention this roof was collapsing in slow motion?

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Extraordinary Eats

Badminton Theme Restaurant

The Professor just cycled by this brand spanking new Wangjing eatery. “Shuttlecock shaped plates?” he offered. “Badminton-racket-strained spaghetti?”

As long as they allow hairpin net shots, I’m in!

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Consumerism

Quick Aside on Smoking in China

China just looooooves its smokes.

Convenience stores sell them, grocery stores, supermarkets — and yet STILL you’ll still find dedicated tobacco stores on just about every corner.

Notice how Little Miss Flowers & Fruits squeezes into a tiny nook, while Mr Brand Name Cigarettes sprawls out double-wide. Yep, there’s money in smokes!

Need bridal makeup? Forget that crap! These guys offer SMOKING makeup!

Erenhot even has a Tobacco Hotel.

But every now and then, someone in China decides smoking is bad. And they put up something like this.

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Extraordinary Eats

Private Pickles Steamed Meat Balls

Now that’s what I’m talking about.

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The Zombie Files

“When You Need More Bloodspray….”

We needed squibs. I didn’t exactly know what they were, or how they worked, but they’re little charges that explode under an actor’s shirt, so it looks like they’ve just been shot. Just like in Die Hard or Bad Boys II. But in Poultrygeist, it wasn’t Hans Gruber who’d be shot—it was the horde of bloodthirsty chicken-zombies, exploding with green slime. (Everyone knows zombie blood is green.) Old Arbie shoots them, while wearing his short skirt and sash.

The only problem was that the cheapest guy we could find wanted ten thousand dollars for squibs. And we didn’t have ten thousand dollars.

So I called Tony.

I’d first met Tony Franco a few weeks earlier. He drove me around in his long Cadillac sedan, showing me Buffalo’s fast food restaurants. He intrigued me. He was short, prematurely balding, and walked with a cheap plastic orthopedic cane like my grandfather used. I don’t know where his limp came from, but it added to his mystery, along with his stylish suits and copious gold. He also ran an Italian restaurant. He seemed like a character from a cheesy mafia film. And yet he was just another one of Buffalo’s hundreds of volunteers for the film, who’d shown up at the church out of the blue, offering to help.

“What’s this for?” I’d asked him that first day, when I found a short, splintered baseball bat within easy reach of the driver’s seat.

“That? That belongs to the family,” he said with a menacing wink, pausing for a beat before adding, “I mean, it’s my kid’s. Can you grab the map for me? It’s in the glove compartment.” In the glove compartment, on top of the map, sat a heavy handgun. I don’t know guns, but it was big.

“Is this your kid’s, too?” I asked.

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Offbeat Museums

Castration Classes at the Beijing Eunuch Culture Exhibition Hall

The first time I ever met The Professor, he told me about the eunuch museum. He didn’t say much. Just that there was one. In West Beijing.

“You really should go,” he said. “It’s… well, it’s interesting.” He adjusted his glasses the way a professor should, but he wouldn’t say more.

A few weeks later, I found myself staring through smudged plexiglas at the only remaining inhabitant of the Beijing Eunuch Culture Exhibition Hall. He was, of course, dead.

Covered by an imperial yellow sheet, this junkless monk apparently died of lead poisoning. 400 years later, he was dug up and stuck in a case. His name wasn’t recorded, but I doubt it was Tian Yi.

Tian Yi (田以) was the most famous Chinese eunuch that ever lived. He served a series of three Emperors, and carried his genitals in a jug. His 1605 funeral was insane: the government shut for days, hundreds of eunuchs attended, and he was buried like a king. And just like any other Chinese royal, his grave was robbed.

“I’m too scared,” said a Chinese teenage girl. “Can you come with me?”

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Our Weird Projects

Where We See 420

Don’t miss what comes after the fold…

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Fashionista

Nazi Fashion in China

That’s twice I’ve seen guys on my street wearing the Nazi iron cross.

The first was an office worker on lunch break. He was dressed in a handsome suit, but in place of a tie wore a heavy Nazi cross. He saw me staring, and he smiled. I think he thought it looked dapper. The second passed in a blur, but his iron cross was mounted in his suit like a boutonnière. But what’s an iron cross? Just an accessory, a small fashionable touch. It’s nothing like the full Korean nazis we’d met in Seoul.

But it’s a start.

I thought I’d take a glance at China’s top shopping site Taobao, and see what else I could find for the budding Beijing Nazi. (Tomorrow is, after all, Hitler’s 123rd birthday.)

The most popular is the must-have $12 Nazi iPhone4 cover, in your choice of slick distressed styles…

See more after the jump

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Lost in Translation

Uighur Poetry

Local Xinjiang menu doubles as undiscovered Situationist/Dada manifesto…

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Extraordinary Eats, Sweet Movies and Wild Books

Philadelphia CheeseSteak Ice Cream

“That’s possibly the worst idea I’ve ever heard.”

Michelle didn’t use these words lightly. She didn’t say this when I’d suggested we fly across the country to a park staffed by 108 dwarfs, or we hand-feed live animals to hungry tigers, or we train to become professional taxidermists.

But evidently Michelle has her limits, too.

She draws a line at Philadelphia Cheesesteak Ice Cream.

We were about to watch Rambocky X, the legendary double-feature pairing of Rocky VI and Rambo IV. (You know: “When a 60-something fighter comes out of retirement for one last bout, who knows how it’s going to end?!! Well tonight, It Ends Twice!!! That’s right: Rocky & Rambo each wage a sexagenarian battle that could be a fight to the DEATH!!!”)

To accompany this back-to-muscled-back 191 minutes of awesomeness, I’d made avocado ice cream, mango sorbet, and Thai rice ice cream. But those flavors only represented Rambo IV, Thailand and Burma. They left nothing for poor Rocky VI, Philadelphia’s favorite pug.

So I had to fix the situation. And the remedy seemed to be CheeseSteak Ice Cream.

“Why don’t you just make Rocky Road?” Michelle demanded.

“Because that’s not Philly. Philly is cheesesteaks! We need something Rocky would eat.”

I Googled, but Google insisted there was no such thing. There were no recipes, or precedents. This was uncharted territory. I was an explorer. I was a fighter. I felt like Rambocky himself!

{Cue training montage}

I sliced up blood-red chunks of tenderloin.

Sautee’d them in a splash of olive oil, then cooked them in a pool of Karo.

Shredded two-tone cheddar, and a few tablespoons of cream.

Minced candied & cooled tenderloin.

“This is going to be a disaster,” Michelle warned before she went to bed. Okay, she didn’t actually say those words, but I could feel them. Had she voiced her thought, she would have added, “A disaster of historic proportions.”

I nodded, furiously mixing and stirring. There was no way this was going wrong. It was too important.

And it went right. Oh how right it went.

Nuggets of sharp cheddar cheese mixed with crunches of sweet beef, all settled in a gorgeous Philly-style ice cream base. I took a bite, and gasped. “Spectacular,” I announced, even though Michelle had long since fallen asleep. I took another bite. “AMAZING!” She still didn’t wake up. Oh, well.

Granted, it was weird. But it was also something like the greatest weird taste sensation of all time. It was Americana. It was Sweet Jeez! It was glorious.

Except for a cheesesteak itself, I don’t think there could be anything better than this.

So here’s the recipe….

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Lost in Translation

Strange Warnings Posted Outside a Beijing Toilet

He was desperate to cover all his bases.

Or maybe this was just a really twisted shitter.

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